Wudan Mountains
Sunday, July 27, 2008

We got up after a solid rest, not the beds at Hubei U. but they would make do. Hey a rhyme, not a rap, but a rhyme. Where I am going with this? Well I learned today that the very mountain were are on is the place where some major components of Kung Fu was founded. Some of these founders were from Shaolin School and the other from the Wudan School. The latter group was the inspiration for none other than the hip hop group Wu-Tang Clan. The ending scene from Ang Lee film Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon was filmed at Wudan monastery. Another note on the Wu-Tang is that the number of MC’s (AKA rap singers) is nine, a very important number in Chinese culture. Who would have thought that lessons in China would give me some insight on ODB, the lead singer of the Wu-Tang Clan?

Walkway up to the first temple of the day

Wow, did I get off topic. Anyway, we first went to a Daoist temple that was gorgeous. It was a resting place of Mao’s Red Army troops in 1931. I believe this was during infamous Long March, when the Chang Kai Shek’s Guomingdang (Nationalist Army) was chasing the communists around the country. For those who care the Long March, was THE event that probably won over the hearts and minds of the peasants of China to the Chinese Communist Party.

Incense is burned here to honor the gods.

Focus, Pete! After touring the monastery we stopped for a simple tea ceremony/tasting at shop at the temple. Awesome! The tea was great, all of it. I think we tried about twenty different varieties. It was relaxing and yet another great experience. I apologize for the over use of my adjectives, there just aren’t enough for this trip.

Tea is served

After a tea party we took a roller coaster mountain ride on our bus and ended up at the foot of the largest peak of the Wudan Mountains and location of the Golden Hall. We rode a small cab like lift up the mountain, straight up the mountain. The ride lasted thirty minutes. Each time we thought we reached the last peak we kept going up. At one point we simply rode off into the mist. You could only see the cab right in front of you. It looked like cloud city in the Empire Strikes Back, all it was missing was some smooth Billy Dee as Lando. If you do not get that reference, brush up on your Star Wars. And again, I did have dates in high school, a bunch of them, as a matter of fact.

One of the Fulbrighters heading to Cloud City

Once we reached the top of the world, it seemed that we, we wait for it…, climbed more stairs. It was not disappointing. The sights were from an Indiana Jones movie. The steps got so steep that the next step was above your waste. The cool mountain air and ancient sights made journey well worth the sweat. At every turn there was incense being offered to the gods. It added to mystical quality the mountain exuded. The amazing thing is the whole thing was built not by slave labor, my thought, but by Daoist monks. Wow. The Golden Hall was crowded but still amazing to see.

Burning incense

One could easily argue that the Wudan Mountains was a match to the Great Wall. I think they would lose but it would be a great conversation. The ride down the cable cars (two per car) was much more enjoyable for many of our group. My photographs do no justice to sights and views of the mountain and its temple.

View from near the top of Wudan Mountain

The locks represent people who have sealed their love. It is very good luck to have done this.

The view even higher

After lunch we were treated to lecture and demonstration of Martial Arts. We sipped our green tea and listened to the philosophy of their art form. The philosophy is not outward battle but an inner discipline that guides and provides balance to your life. There were some demonstrations don. What was cool is that this was arranged by one our professors At Hubei U. who is a friend of one the instructors on the mountain. Apparently, Wudan Mountain is to martial arts study as the Ivy League is to American Universities.

A little green tea and martial arts

A little green tea.

We winded the hairpin turns down the mountain to the station where we caught our train. It was right on time. The train was packed with humanity. People were everywhere and they seemed to keep coming and coming. It looked like it was going to be a miserable trip back after such a relaxing and enlightening trip to the mountains. Wrong.

I was on a middle bunk, comical enough. Myself and Sharon, on a middle bunk across from me, watched the Chinese countryside roll by our window. We saw water buffaloes, lone farmers, rivers, and rice fields as far the eye could see. It was sooo relaxing. I finally decided to finish my book and catch some sleep, when we were joined by these two little girls who were sleeping underneath us with there mom and grandmother respectively.

Watch the butterfly song

They were hilarious. One them would climb the ladder to my bunk and spy on me and “flirt”. I snapped a pic of her with my camera. She laughed and giggled, she was a total “ham”. She posed for every shot from now on with ever present victory symbol. Well this goofing around when on for hours. Pure entertainment. At one pint when I was reading she started grabbing my toes from underneath my bunk. The mom was super nice and we talked as much as three people who do not understand each other can.

My little friend sneaking up on me

Our whole area, still crammed like sardines, was in on the fun. One business guy played with the girls also. Eventually her little friend woke up and they put on signing and dancing exhibition. We all loved it. Sharon shared some of her peanut butter with them. After initially being apprehensive, the soon devoured it and wanted more. They then gave us some of their yogurt. The simplest things reveal the character of people. The people of China are caring, thoughtful, and a joy to spend time with.

The two little girls, they are freinds, the mom, and the other girl's grandmother

Sadly the train ride ended but it was great to get back to the city of Wuhan and our home at good old Hubei U.

Click on this for more photos and videos of the day, there are some great ones
I am looking forward to heading back to family and friends in the states but man what a wonderful experience.

Wudan Mountains
Saturday, July 26, 2008

I week from now I will be heading to the Shanghai airport for home. The month has gone by so fast. I con not believe the things I have learned and seen. So cool. We have seen more of China in our three weeks than most Chinese see in a lifetime. I am so appreciative of Dr. Kung, the Confucius Institute, and the Fulbright program for this experience. I could never replicate this traveling on my own.

Doors to a Daoist Shrine

This morning we woke up early checked out of our rooms (only for a couple of days, we are coming back Sunday night). We were leaving by train, soft seats, for the Wudan Mountains in the northern Hubei province. Minnie, one of the people in Wuhan who work for the university and assist us with everything we need, had already picked up the tickets.

The view from my bed/seat on the train to the Mountains

I love traveling by train so the prospect of a five hour train ride did nothing but thrill me. The trains were great. They had six bed/seats per open cabin that stacked three beds to a side. Our whole group had bottom berths. They were comfortable, so comfortable in fact that I slept a solid three hours of the trip. I alternated between reading, snacking, Ipod, and sleeping. So it was a Saturday not unlike most of my Saturdays.

When we arrived in the city of Wudan our coach bus met us and we took it up the mountain. Now when I mean up, I mean straight up. The road wound like a serpent up the mountain. The views were as breathtaking as some of the turns. It was much akin to a roller coaster.

Not a bad little walk

We had several stops up the mountain. The first was a beautiful path through woods and over mountain streams. There were flowers and animals of all varieties everywhere you looked. One of the things this area is famous for are the monkeys that are native to the mountain. Unfortunately the only monkeys we saw were domesticated. We even saw a short little show they put on, I saw a monkey catch and dunk a little basketball. I missed most of that show because I took a longer walk along the path. It was too nice to miss. The sky was blue and the air was clean, much appreciated by the group.

We walked over these falls

Here is a link to a great article in the LA Times about the Wudan Mountains

Flowers and a butterfly in the mountains

Once our poor guide was able to corral all us together, teachers are notoriously the worst listeners; we walked to another area to watch a martial arts performance. It was nothing compared to my performance of the other day but it would do for entertainment. It was actually very nice. The martial arts moves were almost a ballet. I sat next to a serene lake and watched the exhibition until I nodded off. The more I nap the more I want to sleep. I guess the walking in the woods and the cool mountains breezes made for a good restful atmosphere.

Incense burner at the Nanyan Temple in the Wudan Mountains

We loaded up the bus and went even further up the mountain to a Daoist shrine that is something like seven hundred years old. It is in the middle of restoration so there was a lot of work going on at it. In a way it seeing the older more worn areas of the temple gave it a more authentic feel.

The roofs are usually red, a like the green better.

We got back on the bus and still went higher. I am not kidding here folks the views were spectacular and we were really up high. We finally arrived at the top and took a path to this Daoist Temple called the Nanyan Temple that was built right into the side of this mountain. So we took this path that was as arduous as it was stunning. There seemed to be as many steps as there are people in China. But after every turn or landing of steps there was some dazzling view of the mountain or temple. We finally reached the main part of the temple and the trip was worth it. In the side of the cliff there were rooms and worship areas.

The sky was clear we were literally in the clouds

What you have to appreciate is the fact it took us nearly three hours, by bus, to get the top. Can you imagine when there was note mechanized modes of transport. Holy crap, what kind of journey was that like? People still use the temple to pray in. Every spring people head to the temple to light incense on this spot so precarious that only in country free from the litigious west would let people climb out to this dangerous perch without a waiver form.

Stuff like this is around every corner

Despite the fact the temple is still used there are people hawking every kind of food, drink, and craft ware under the sun. They even have groups of guys who will transport you in a gondola like contraption. After hounding one of group members halfway up the steps he relented and let them carry him. I am big guy and so is my colleague and they got him up and down with no problems. Capitalism is alive and thriving in China.

After the steps I purchased a, “hen pijo” or cold beer. So I sat on a bench overlooking these magnificent mountain views and enjoyed a cold beer. Life is tough folks. After a nice dinner I called it night. Early rise in the morning.

More photos of the day, click HERE

Tai Chi, were it was invented on the Wudan Mountains